Air, light and energy…three words that perfectly capture the inspiration behind the CHANEL 2013 Spring-Summer Ready-to-Wear collection.
Beneath the glass ceiling of the Grand Palais, the models sauntered over a floor embossed with a solar panel aesthetic that was lined with towering metallic structures, reaching 19 metres high, whose blades blew a cool summer breeze.
The show opened with a little black jacket in cotton tweed, finished with leather detail and embroidered with ivory pearls. It was closely followed by a “dress-skirt”, the latest innovation in the CHANEL wardrobe. With its purified silhouette, strapless bustier and discreet pockets, it embodies a new, ultra-modern look.
With unprecedented proportions, the latest CHANEL jacket metamorphasises into a bolero, that lengthens the silhouette. Generously tailored, it’s boxy shape with shortened sleeves is worn with a very short skirt or openwork cotton trousers that hug the figure to beneath the chest.
The palette of colours becomes increasingly intense. Monochromatic outfits are infiltrated by delicate jackets in double-faced tweed with raw-edged hems in deep blue and brilliant aubergine, complete with matching trousers. Mini dresses in ultra marine and spring green are adorned with oversized “galette” collars*. An overcoat in vermillion patent leather is lined with a large black and white check and worn over an ivory cotton dress. Black chiffon dresses embellished with slender shards of multi-coloured silk float diaphanously. Some are slightly quilted but all are weightless.
For the majestic finale, floral motifs are embroidered to appear as though printed three-dimensionally over white cotton dress-skirts.
Karl Lagerfeld has shaken up the codes of the House for this new collection. “No chains, no camellias, no braiding”. The only identifiable element is the emblematic, but now over-sized, pearl – worn either accumulated around the neck or the wrist, sewn on as buttons, but also embroidered over jackets, dress-skirts and even onto a pair of red leather fingerless gloves.
A “maxi-bag” accessorises a swimsuit finished with a double C. The two-tone shoe makes a new appearance as a transparent high heel with a black toe whilst strappy sandals are decorated with striped heels and platforms.
Karl Lagerfeld generates a new energy on the catwalk and once more demonstrates his endlessly renewable source of creativity.